All oils and fats are complex compounds called triglycerides. All oils and fats are a mixture of triglycerides with a different fatty
acid attached. To further explain, an oil molecule is formed from
one glycerin molecule and three fatty acid molecules. All fatty
acid molecules are lipophinic and hydrophilic. Lipophilic means that it has a great affinity for oil. Hydrophilic means that it has
a great affinity for water. The glycerin component of an oil or fat is an alcohol with three locations on
its molecule where
the hydrophilic molecule of the fatty acids attaches. The best oils contain
essential fatty acids because these cannot be synthesized
in the human body.
The most important are linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids.
Almond, Sweet (Prunus amygdales) Sweet almond oil is pressed from almond kernels. The almond tree is cultivated in Southern Europe,
the Mediterranean countries and California. It consists mainly of oleic acid (69%), essential unsaturated fatty acids (25%), sterolins
(.5 to 1%) and vitamin E (about 10 IU per ounce. A light nearly odorless oil. Sweet almond oil is said to have great nutritional value
for all skin types. Has a similar make up to baby’s sebum,
the oil naturally produced by the skin to protect it and is easily absorbed.
Contain glucosides, minerals, and
vitamins and is rich in protein. Sweet almond oil has very little natural smell and can be used
as a perfume base.
It was highly valued by the Egyptians for cosmetic purposes.
Apricot Kernel (Prunus armeniaca) Apricot kernel oil comes from the large pits of apricots that yield up to 45% oil. The apricot tree
is cultivated throughout
the Northern Hemisphere. Apricot kernel oil has 30% unsaturated essential fatty acid content. The oil
is similar in weight to human sebum. Extremely nourishing to the skin and excellent around the eyes and neck. Apricot kernel oil is
an emollient. According to the AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health does
help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce
roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.
Avocado (Persea americana) Avocado oil is made from the pulp of the avocado fruit. It is a rich, heavy but penetrating oil that is
full of nutritive and therapeutic components. Avocado oil contains more than 20 % essential unsaturated fatty acids. It contains vitamins
A, C, D and E, proteins, beta-carotene, lecithin, fatty acids and the "youth mineral" potassium. Avocado oil is high in unsaponifiables
(sterolins) which are reputed to be beneficial in reducing age spots, healing scars and moisturizing the upper layers of the skin.
Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing
effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age spots. Oils with
the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil. A 1991 study at the Department
of Food Engineering and Biotechnology, Technion-Israel Institute of Technology found that treatment with avocado oil significantly
increases the water soluble collagen content in the dermis, which
effects the age of the skin. Avocado is used in many folk medicines
as an aphrodisiac. Avocado oil is an emollient and very stable. According to the AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health it does help
make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation.
And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.
Said to help protect the skin from ultraviolet rays.
Black Currant Seed (Ribes nigrum) Obtained from the fruit of the Ribes nigrum, grown in Europe. High in fatty acids, especially in
GLA.
Said to help damaged skin and aid in the reconstruction of cell membranes.
Borage (Borago officinalis) Obtained from the seed of Borago officinalis, which grows abundantly in the Mediterranean region, Central
Europe and Asia.
Has an extremely high gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) content. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important
function in the body,
especially the skin. Borage oil also has the highest known content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. These
are great skin conditioners.
They regulate the hydration of the skin and are humectants.
Castor USP (Ricinus communis) Castor oil is extracted from the sees of the castor plant. Commonly used commercially in 50% of lipsticks
in
the United States. Creates a protective barrier on the skin and is soothing. Castor oil is part alcohol and part oil.
It is mainly
composed of ricinoleic acid (87%), a fatty acid with an unusual molecular structure. Also known as Palm Christi Oil.
Carrot oil is rich in beta carotene, vitamins A & E and pro-vitamin A which help heal dry, chapped, cracked skin.
Carrot oil helps
to balance the moisture in our skin and conditions hair. Use at 5 -10% in products for repair and conditioning of skin
or hair or
at about 2-5% for general moisturizing effects. A good oil for the face.
Coconut (Cocos nucifera) Coconut oil is expressed from coconut kernels. Coconut is solid at temperatures below 76 degrees. Also available
in higher degree oils. This highly saturated fat contains twice the heavy fats as lard. Coconut oil is commonly used to promote lather
in soaps and gel.
Wonderfully emollient and has cooling properties. Available in various degrees.
Cranberry Seed oil is an essential fatty acid oil recently introduced into the supplement industry. It is the only available oil with
a one to one ratio
of Omega 6 (linoleic) to Omega 3 (alpha-linolenic) fatty acids. Cranberry seed oil has oxidative stability and
contains 70% essential fatty acids making
it a superb emollient, lubricant and conditioner for the skin. It is excellent for use in
skin, hair, lip and baby care. Cranberry seed oil contributes to the lipid barrier protection of the skin and assists in moisture
retention. The oil also contains high concentrations of tocopherols, tocotrienols, phytosterols,
phospholipids and Vitamin A, redefining
performance and stability standards for highly polyunsatruated oils.
Evening Primrose (Oenothers bennis) Evening primrose oil is taken from the seeds of the evening primrose. The name comes from the
fact that its flowers blossom in the evening and wither in the day. Evening primrose oil has high gamma linoliec acid, which is an
essential polyunsaturated fatty acid that is converted into prostaglandins and hormones. Because evening primrose oil has an extremely
high gamma linolenic acid (GLA) content it has been extensively researched. GLA is vital for the synthesis of prostaglandin an important
function in the body, especially the skin. Linoliec acid is said to rejuvenated skin cells. Evening primrose is full of vitamins and
minerals. It also repairs damaged skin, keeps skin healthy, helps repair sun damaged and mature skin.
Evening primrose oil is an emollient.
According to the AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health does help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking
and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.
Flax Seed (Linum usitatissimum) Flaxseed oil is pressed from the seeds of the flax plant. It has a high concentration of omega-3 essential
fatty acids.
It has a superpolyunsaturated nature and is very unstable. It must be refrigerated.
Commonly used for eczema, psoriasis,
burns, inflammatory skin and other skin conditions.
Grapeseed (Vitis vinifera) Grapeseed oil is made from the seeds of wine producing grapes. The lightest of oils and virtually odorless.
Contains
vitamins, minerals, high in polyunsaturates and protein. Grapeseed oil is wonderful used around the eyes and neck.
Widely used in
hypoallergenic natural products because it does not often cause allergic reactions in the highly allergic.
Hazelnut (Corylus avellana) Hazelnut oil is extracted from hazelnuts. It penetrates the skin easily. It has some vitamin E content.Cold pressed hazelnut
oil is a wonderful light, penetrating oil that is slightly astringent making it a good oil for acne prone
skin. It is high in the essential fatty acids and is
soothing and healing to dry irritated skin. Studies have shown that it can filtersunrays and is therefore commonly used in sun care products.
A good oil for massage, hair care and cream/lotion formulas.
Hemp Seed (Cannabis sativa) Hemp seed oil is extracted from the seeds of the Cannabis sativa plant. To most people Cannabis sativa
is synonymous with marijuana; the Latin name translates to "useful hemp." Because of this we are often asked if our hemp oil is legal.
The oil itself is perfectly legal. There is no tetrahydrocannabinol in the final product of hemp oil. Hemp contains proteins and high
quality fat. Hemp has a remarkable fatty acid profile. It is high in omega-3 and a 1.7% gamma-linolenic acid. It is 57% linoleic and
19% linoleic acids. Hemp is a wonderful oil for dry or mature skin since it is said to help stimulate cell growth. It has high levels
of essential fatty acids, including linolenic acid. Natural hemp seed oil is dark green and has a nutty rich scent. Hemp seed oil
is an emollient. According to the AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health emollients help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce
roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. Hemp seed has a lot of minerals and is good
for the skin and hair.
Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) Jojoba oil is cold pressed from the nuts of the jojoba tree. The jojoba tree is cultivated in California,
Arizona, Mexico and Israel. Jojoba is pronounced Ho Ho Ba. Native Americans have been using jojoba for centuries. The first record
of jojoba is from 1701. Father Junipero Serrra found that Native Americans were using Jojoba to treat sores, cuts, burns, as a conditioner
and for all over skin and hair treatments. Jojoba is technically not an oil, but a liquid wax ester with a long unsaturated carbon
chains. Chemically it resembles sperm whale oil or spermaceti oil. It was a popular ingredient in creams.
In the 1970's the United
States banned all sperm whale products because they were contributing to the extinction of sperm whales. In 1977 domestic commercial
jojoba oil cultivation began because it is the natural substitute for spermaceti, which in other cases has been replaced by synthetic
products. Jojoba esters are composed of straight chain alcohols. The acid and the alcohol portions have 20 or 22 carbon atoms and
one unsaturated bond. It resembles human
sebum; the natural coating our body produces to protect the skin and keeps it supple.
Jojoba is skin therapy; our skin loses sebum with age, sun, wind, cold, and the environment. IT Contains protein, minerals and a waxy
substance that mimics collagen. Jojoba is perfect for any skin type it has a large molecular structure. Jojoba can help dry or oily
skin. If your skin has an over production of sebum jojoba oil will dissolve clogged pores and restore the skin to its natural pH balance.The reason jojoba oil works so well it actually penetrates the skin because it is accepted as sebum. Although jojoba oil is very
expensive
it does have a long shelf life; it will never break down or go rancid. Jojoba is expensive because it can take up to 1200
nuts to get one pond of jojoba nuts, which have a 50% yield of oil. Because jojoba has very little scent it works as a wonderful natural
perfume base. Jojoba is not greasy and absorbs right
into the skin. JMC Technologies has conducted scientific research proving that
jojoba can increase skin softness by up to 37%, it reduces superficial
lines and wrinkles up to 25% upon application and up to
11% after 8 hours. Jojoba oil is hypoallergenic and pure.
Kukui Nut (Aleurites moluccana) Pressed from the nut of the tropical kukui tree, which comes mainly from Hawaii, Tahiti, Indonesia
and Malaysia. High in essential fatty acids. Wonderful for sensitive skin, mature, damaged, wrinkled skin. Said to aid in softening
and restructuring the skin. High in linoleic and linolenic acids which are essential fatty acids vital for the metabolism of healthy
skin. Vitamins A, C and E are added to stabilize the oil. Kukui nut oil is easily absorbed by the skin. A wonderful massage oil. It
has been used by the Hawaiians for thousands of years for dry skin, psoriasis and acne.
Macadamia Nut (Macadamia integrifolia) Pressed from the macadamia nut, which is an evergreen tree grown mainly in Hawaii. Macadamia
nut oil is similar to sebum, the oil naturally produced by human skin to protect it. Absorbs well into the skin, is highly emollient
and soothing. Contains magnesium and thiamin.
Meadowfoam Seed oil when added to cosmetics and creams, it re-moisturizes the skin in ways no oil can. In shampoos and soaps it helps
add shine moisture to hair and scalp made dry and brittle by the harsh process of daily washing. In lipsticks and balms, it helps
revitalize dry, cracked lips and they stay moist longer. Meadowfoam Seed is currently being used in the following types of products:
suntan lotions, eye shadows, eye liners, mascara, hand/face creams, cuticle repair lotions, body oils and creams, shaving creams,
foundations, rouges, face powders, lip sticks, shampoos, and hair/scalp treatments.
Neem (Azadriachta indica) Used widely in India as an antibacterial, antiviral. antifungal, antiseptic, antiparasitic agent in toiletries,
soap, toothpaste
and skin/hair care products. It is used to treat skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis, ringworm, scabies, syphilitic
sores, chicken pox etc. It can be used
to get rid of lice and control dandruff. In toothpaste in helps relieve swollen and bleeding
gums and kills the bacteria that cause gingivitis. Neem powder
can be used in a foot bath powder to kill fungus and bacteria. Mixed
with clay, it makes a great facial for those with acne and other skin problems.
Add to liquid soap base for an anti bacterial hand
soap. Use in bug repellant lotion bars to keep the bugs away. Use in pet soaps to kill and repel fleas
and to treat hot spots.
Neem oil can be sprayed on plants to keep insects from devouring the leaves.
Olive (Olea europaea) Olive oil is obtained by crushing and pressing the fruit of the olive tree. The olive tree is native to the
Mediterranean area, but can be grown in other tropical and warm areas. The olive tree is an evergreen. An important historic oil used
extensively in ancient times. Highly nutritive and stable. Contains protein, minerals and vitamins. Superior penetrating power. It
is a yellow or greenish. Has acidic and antioxidant values. Olive oil is high in unsaponifiables, which is a large group of compounds
called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce
scars. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.
Palm (Elaesis guineesis) Palm oil is obtained from the fruit or seed of the palm tree. A rich source of Vitamin A. Palm 106 is a refined,
food grade oil. Although it has little contribution to skin care and would not make a nice bar of soap by itself, it makes a nice
hard bar when used in combination with other oils such as coconut and olive oil. It is less water-soluble and resists "melting" a
do many softer soaps. It saponifies easily and pulls other oils into saponification quicker.
Red Raspberry seed oil is another new addition to the list of available essential fatty acid containing oils. It contains 83% essential
fatty acids. Raspberry seed
oil is emollient, lubricating, conditioning, a lipid barrier providing protection to the skin and provides
moisture retention for the skin. This oil has UV absorptive properties in all three ranges beneficial for photoprotection. It contains
hight concentrations of mixed tocopherols, tocotrienols and carotenoids.
The oil reveals mild raspberry flavor and aroma.
Rose Hip Seed (Rosa mosqueta) Rose Hip oil is extracted from ripened fruit of a hybrid, thorny, wild rosebush native to South American
countries.
A healing oil that is said to regenerate the skin and counteract the effects of aging. Rose hip oil is a rich source of
omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, is high in gamma linoliec acid (GLA) and vitamin C. Rose hip oil is often used in products made for
stretch marks, burns, scars and mature dry skin.
Rose hip seed oil is an emollient and strengthens the hair shaft. According to the
AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health emollients do help make
the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation.
And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.
Safflower (Carthamus tinctoorius) Safflower oil is from an annual plant that is native to Mediterranean countries. It is also grown
in Europe and the United States. It can be obtained by pressing or a solvent extraction. Safflower has one of the highest linoleic
acid (70%) contents of all oils. The moisture content of human skin is proportional to the content of essential unsaturated fatty
acids. Wonderfully moisturizing.
Sesame (Sesamum inducum) Made from sesame seeds. Contains natural antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, proteins, lecithin and amino acids.
From the edible seeds of an East Indian herb. Traditionally used in the healing art of Indian Ayurvedic. Sesame oil is high in unsaponifiables
which is a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on
the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars.
Shea Oil (Butyrospermum parkii) is obtained by cold pressing of the fruits (seeds) of the karite tree followed by a full refining
process.
During the pressing of the butter, a liquid fraction appears as SHEA OIL which offers an exceptional skin feel. Shea is well
known to assist
coetaneous dryness, dermatitis and dermatoses, eczema, solar erythema and burns.
Suggested Uses: Use from 3% to 20%
in creams and lotions, soaps and balms, or 100% pure as a moisturizing serum or massage oil.
Soybean (Soya max) The ancient Orient cultivated soybeans for its protein, oil and lecithin content. Currently soybean oil is one
of the most important oils produced in the United States. It is pressed from the soybean. Most of the lecithin (phospholipids) used
in cosmetics are derived from soybeans. Soybean oil has a very high-unsaturated fatty acid compound, 2% sterolins and 30 IU per ounce
of vitamin E. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior
moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age
spots. Oils with the highest unsaponifiables are shea butter, avocado oil, sesame oil, soybean oil and olive oil.
Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Obtained from the milling of the seeds from the sunflower. It is rich in both vitamins A and E. Sunflower
oil is
very high in essential fatty acids and helps to moisturize, regenerate and condition the skin. Can be used as a main oil
or in a blend.
Good for mature, sensitive and dry, damaged skin. Leaves a second "skin" feeling when dry.
Walnut (Juglans nigra) Pressed from the nut of the walnut tree. Walnut oil is high in linoleic acid and helps to regenerate and moisturize
damaged dry skin.
Wheat Germ (Triticum vulgare) Wheat germ oil is from the golden germ of the wheat. It is extremely high in vitamin A, B1, D, lecithin,
protein, a high content of unsaturated fatty acid compounds and a very high vitamin E content at 250 IU per ounce. Wheat germ oil
has a heavy wheat nut scent.
A very emollient oil that needs to be blended with other oils to overcome its extremely sticky texture.
According to the AMA's committee on coetaneous
health emollients do help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness,
cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging.
Aloe Vera Oil (Aloe barbadensis miller) is produced by macerating the aloe vera leaves in soybean oil. By using the oil, you can add
the healing properties of aloe vera to your product without needing to worry about bacterial/mold growth. Use aloe vera oil at 5-10%
in most formulations.
